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- Path: news.mountain.net!usenet
- From: gene_heskett@wvlink.mpl.com (Gene Heskett)
- Newsgroups: comp.sys.amiga.hardware
- Subject: Re: A3k Battery Location?
- Date: 10 Mar 96 00:45:34 +0500
- Organization: MountainNet, Inc. Morgantown WV 800.444.1458
- Message-ID: <3318.6643T45T1739@wvlink.mpl.com>
- References: <4hhvj7$kme@tandem.CAM.ORG> <19960306.7B6C550.F0BD@mother.com>
- <1634.6640T542T2525@wvlink.mpl.com> <4hpuqa$sni@vixen.cso.uiuc.edu>
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-
- BB> Gene Heskett (gene_heskett@wvlink.mpl.com) wrote:
-
- BB>: Check its voltage too, should be in the 3.6ish area. If 2.4ish
- BB>: or
- BB>: 1.2ish, replace even if not leaking as it has a shorted cell or
- BB>: 2. I found a somewhat wider but otherwise usable replacement at
- BB>: my local electroncis supply store.
-
- BB> The real question everybody wants to know is, how on earth do you
- BB> get the darned thing *off*...??? Is there any alternative, short
- BB> of using wire cutters to snip off the mounting claws away from
- BB> the base and then soldering insulated wire leads to the stubs to
- BB> connect to another battery holder located somewhere safer? Is
- BB> there any easier way to get that battery out? How did you do
- BB> it...?
-
- I did have to jump in here, and "open my mouth", didn't I... Didn't I?
-
- Well, in my case, I am a Certified Electronics Tech., and I do own a
- suitable soldering iron. And I've been running it for a living for
- very close to 50 years!
-
- Seriously, I've found that if it does need replacing, there is
- relatively little that can be done in the way of making solder
- actually wet those "by now corroded tabs" you would get by doing it
- that way. So I prefer to go ahead and remove the motherboard, remove
- its bottom shield, and "do it right". The replacement batterys will
- quite often have a nearly identical '3' legged set of mounting tabs
- that can be made to fit right in the original location on the board.
-
- This mounts it solidly. Other methods that leave it laying semi loose
- on soldered on leads always scare me just a bit unless I can convince
- myself that its never going to short itself against anything for the
- next 10 years, regardless of the ambient heat, or a rambunctious dogs
- tail sweeping it off the table, whatever.
-
- A short circuited NiCad battery is a thing of scary beauty as it
- first smokes the plastic skin its wearing, followed shortly by its
- explosion! The chemical reaction that drives a NiCad, and which
- makes it an excellent battery for high current uses can furnish an
- extraordinary amount of current for long enough to cause it to
- overheat and explode. With its leakage rate at 10% a month sitting
- on the shelf, I have NEVER understood why it got to be so darned
- popular as a micro current device to run a clock chip from. Even
- when these miggi's were new, the pc folks were using lithium
- batteries for an even higher current draw since they were also using
- it to hold the cmos data.
-
- That clock chip draws no more real power than my Casio watch does,
- which is 10 years old, and still running very happily on its 2nd battery
- as I type this. Time error? 10-15 seconds a year!
-
- If you aren't comfortable with the soldering iron, do take it to
- someone who is. The iron of course should be well static grounded,
- preferably tempurature regulated, max power needed is in the 50 watt
- area. Such irons cost in the area of $130 US recently. Make sure the
- techs iron is up to those specs if he doesn't mind you're being
- nosey, I've seen a lot of $20 irons in tv shops that I don't go near
- the second time!
-
- Cheers
-
- /* Gene Heskett | These opinions are NOT to be */
- /* CE @ WDTV Weston/Clarksburg WV | confused with the official */
- /* <gene_heskett@wvlink.mpl.com> | WDTV managment views */
- #include <std.disclaimer>
-
-
-